Mexicatessen La Palma

Take-out mostly | 2884 24th St., at Florida Street, SF | 415.647.1500 | website

The sign really does say Mexicatessen, which is an abbreviation of Mexican Delicatessen.  It feels a lot like the famous Italian deli, Molinari’s in North Beach…  The line forms quickly so you need to grab a number when you walk in and it can be very confusing because there is so much going on.  First we loitered around looking at the display cases and menu for a while before we took numbers.

La Palma grinds its own corn to make fresh masa which is made into tortillas by hand as well as by machine and grilled behind the counter. Read Eating Asia’s paean about the hand made tortillas here, they really are that good.  We noticed that they have a brisk business selling bags of the fresh ground masa.

This case in the front really catches your attention.  The top shelf has a few scruffy slabs of fried skin displayed under bright fluorescent lights and the lower shelf flaunted tubs full of chicharrón, carnitas and other delicious looking chunks of meat.

I went to the back and stood there looking over the menu, which is in Spanish, that I can barely navigate my way through.  (Hello, I studied Japanese in school…) And there are so many delicious things to choose from!  Since we were going for ice cream at Humphry Slocombe after this, I decided to just get a taco with the handmade tortillas.  I also got a couple of frozen Nacatamales and a package of bean and cheese filled gorditas to go.  I’m glad I did because everyone else went hogwild and bought piles of food that I was happy to help consume!

Here’s the Chile Verde taco, two handmade tortillas smeared with refried beans and piled with tender spicy pork beans and topped with lots of cilantro and fresh onions.

Despite language shortcomings, DebbieG managed to order a plate of their amazing Chicharrón.  This is something completely different from the fried pork skin rinds that can be found at any grocery store.  Read Mexico Bob’s excellent post on the many variations here.

At first glance it looks dry and tough and and its appearance is not very appetizing.  But this is to the uninitiated.  It is a treasure chest of bliss, the best of everything in one compact square of pork joy.  On one end you have the skin that has been fried to an addictive crunchy cheetos crisp that shatters when you bite into it, then there’s some rich custardy pockets of what I like to think of as handles of love and then chewy meaty bites that are like the best carnitas.  All of the most addictive states of pork known to mankind all in one piece.

Sometimes you get a piece that appears to be just fat.  Fried fat globules is good, but I like the combo pieces with meat and skin better.

Here’s a Chicharrón taco on a handmade tortilla and topped with some of their amazing guacamole.  It’s the same meat but chopped up and topped with spicy salsa.

Shirley got a big tub of the guacamole that we gooped over everything, it made the delicious food even more delicious.

Some believe that they make some of the best potato chips in the nation. We tried the fried plantain chips that Debbie got, and thought they were bland and dry.  We decided that we’d rather have fresh fried plantain chips.

Liz had a Chicken Pupusa, which is a thick handmade round of corn flatbread that is griddled and filled with gooey cheese.  It was topped with some chicken, a tart cabbage salad (curtido) and mildly spicy red sauce. 

Shirley’s Carnitas Sopes.  She said it was all right but not very interesting.  Looks like it needed a good blob of spicy salsa.

She really liked the Chicken Huarache.  The sandal shaped flatbread had a lotta delicious stuff piled onto it like salsa verde, cheese and some cabbage and cilantro.  

I hate to say it, but that madly decadent chicharrón really spoiled our tastebuds and everything seemed bland after that…  Besides the prepared foods, they have bins of dried beans, chiles and a variety of cheese in the refrigerated section.

It’s a cool spot where you can pick up piles of delicious food, the only bummer is that they close at 6 pm and there is very limited seating on a few tables outside.

La Palma Mexicatessen on Urbanspoon

Lunch at Chez Panisse Cafe

1517 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley, CA 94709 | 510.548.5049 | website

Our visiting dignitaries from Minnesota, Miss M and Nephew E, wished to make the pilgrimmage to the revered temple of foodliness, Chez Panisse.  It’s amazing how many famous chefs have worked there, Joyce Goldstein, Judy Rodgers, Suzanne GoinMark Peel, Paul Bertolli, Jeremiah Tower and David Lebowitz to name a few.  There’s too many to list here, but I found an interesting online map showing the Chez Panisse family tree.  You can see how influential it has been in shaping the delicious culinary landscape of the Bay Area and beyond.  We lunched in the upstairs Cafe which is more casual and you can order off the menu ala carte.  The upstairs has its own kitchen, which is the first thing you see as you enter the room.

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Slow Cooked, Shut Up Duck

Mr. K’s niece Miss M and nephew E came out for a visit last weekend, staying over at Aunt Casey and Uncle Mank’s rook perched high in the hills above Berkeley.  Miss M is very interested in the culinary arts and greatly enjoyed exploring the Farmer’s Market at the Ferry Building in San Francisco as well as some of the noted areas of epicurean delights in Berkeley, such as Fourth Street and the Gourmet Ghetto.  One of the highlights of the trip was learning how to cook duck with Aunt Casey, who has the art of cooking poultry down to a science.  Here is the duck that had been rinsed off, patted dry, salted and stored in the refrigerator over-night, using the Zuni Cafe dry-brine technique.

Here is the aspiring chef Miss M, employing an interesting technique to combat weepy onion eyes… by holding a spatula in her mouth!  I personally like the mod looking onion goggles, but a friend of mine swears the inserting a piece of bread in her mouth dispels the evil vapors as well…

The legs were browned in the pan, skin side down, and Aunt Casey revealed a very useful cooking tidbit to us, which is that the skin will no longer stick to the pan when it’s done.

Sure enough, the crisped skin no longer stuck to the pan.

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Dinner at Masa’s

48 Bush Street, San Francisco CA 94108 | 415.989.7154 | website

Yes, another chichi swanky place…  My friend JT invited Daisy, Kathy and I to join her for dinner to Masa’s a few weeks ago.  That girl has some serious hookups and had some gift certificates that were about to expire, so we were able to benefit from her use it or lose it campaign.  We met at the cozy bar for a glass of wine and got caught up while we watched the staff ready the dining room.  The dark brown walls, crisp table linens and fresh roses on every table provide a sophisticated backdrop for the degustation menu by French Laundry alumni, Gregory Short.

After my visit in December that you can read about here, I decided that the three course menu with wine pairings was the way to go.  That way I would save some room for the decadent dessert and the mignardise cart.  Kathy and JT had the six courses, and our server often brought out an extra something for me so I wouldn’t have to sit idly, how cool is that?  We started with an amuse bouche of creamy puree of turnip greens soup.

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Humphry Slocombe – Ice Cream and so much more

2790 Harrison St (btw 23rd & 24th St) SF, CA 94110 | 415.550.6971 | website

There has been quite a lot of hooha about Humphry Slocombe Ice cream, which is run by mad genius punk rock pastry chef, Jake Godby, formerly of Coi (he also worked in the kitchens of Boulevard, Fifth Floor and the now closed Tartare).  Apparently he is so mad about ice cream that he has 31 ice cream cones tattooed on his arm.  Gourmet Magazine has proclaimed that he has reinvented ice cream with such palate challenging flavors like salted licorice (gotta love that dubbelzout), government cheese, pistachio bacon, foie gras and prosciutto.  The descriptions alone had me drooling.  I’m following them on twitter (@humphryslocombe) so that I know the very moment that they announce the next batch of foie gras ice cream sandwiches. BTW, there is no Humphrey Slocombe, the name is an homage to Mr. Humphry (I’m free!) and Mrs. Slocombe, characters in the bawdy, over-the-top British sitcom Are You Being Served? The NYT 2009 Summer Travel article says that chef Godby artfully marries ingredients that have no business hooking up in ice cream. But people love it. The front of the shop looks bright and welcoming with tiny tables outside.

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