Foodhoe's Foraging

504 Broadway, SF CA 94133 | 415.577.4951 | website | @nakedlunch

open for lunch Monday to Friday 11.30am – 2.00pm

Former Cafe Majestic chef Ian Begg and sommelier Ryan Maxey opened up a small lunch spot in the annex of Enricos earlier this week.  The name is an homage to William S. Burroughs’ Beat-era novel of the same name (the SF Beat thing still evident by nearby Vesuvio Cafe and City Lights Bookstore and I could go on), to the North Beach neighborhood which is populated with strip clubs, and probably refers to the fact that they are only open for lunch.  The menu is limited to sandwiches, soup, olives and ice cream made by another Cafe Majestc alumni Rebecca Dunlop. Meanwhile, the two are still intent on opening a gastropub as soon as things fall into place.

First JT sent an email about this new food venture, with specific interest in a Berkshire pork belly sando. Then I got an email from Sarah with a link to Daily Candy’s Nude Attitude blurb…  That settled it and we were off to check it out.  There has been quite a bit of buzz about this spot because of the high profile chef,  Ian Beggs, who was a Chronicle Rising Star Chef  in 2008 when he worked at Cafe Majestic.  SF Chronicle food critic Michael Bauer rhapsodized about his preparations of foie gras, especially the foie gras ice cream and gave him a 3 star rating.

There were a few people standing in line, which gave us time to look over the short menu which is handwritten on the wall and changes daily

I decided to splurge, and ordered the Foie Gras & Duck Prosciutto Sandwich w/ Heirloom Tomato, Butter Lettuce, White Truffle Oil  ($15).  I was tempted by the little containers of olives, and consulted with the man at the register whether he thought they would pair well with the sandwich.  He seemed to think that the foie needed to be appreciated on its own, so I just ordered the sandwich.

It took a few minutes, but our names were soon called and we were handed our sandwiches.

There’s a tiny area where you could sit at stools and look at Broadway foot traffic but we opted to go next door to sit at the patio of Enricos (which is closed for lunch).  We sat at a glamorous black velvet sofa at little round carrera marble topped tables, very Barbary Coast.

I had pictured the sandwich being prosciutto with a smear of foie… and was surprised that the foie was layered on thick like a peanut butter sandwich with a single layer of prosciutto that basically melted into the background.  At first bite, I was transported… it was resplendant and filled my mouth with a glamourously rich velvety sensation, and did I mention that they had drizzled truffle oil over this already sinful concoction?  It was very much like eating a giant slab of truffled butter with lettuce and tomato.  And secretly… it was kinda gross after a while…  I wished I had split halvsies with someone.  So yes, sadly, I have to admit that it was too rich for me!

Everyone else ordered the Wood Oven Baked Salmon Sandwich, which was served with horseradish cream, thin slices of cucumber, pickled radish, basil, and baby greens ($9).  They all raved about how delicious the sandwich was, how perfectly matched the ingredients were, the horseradish cream and the pickled radish were keeping the tastebuds tantalized all the way through each and every bite.  Jealous!!!

Daisy and P got a cup of the Sweet Corn with Truffle Oil ($5) which they let everyone try.  It was sweet and fresh tasting, with the earthy aroma of truffle infusing each bite.  I also tasted a bright lemony flavor, and wished for some freshly cracked black and bread to dunk in.

Sarah let us taste her little container of Plum Sorbet, which was sweet, sticky and tasted strongly of ruby port. It was very densely flavored and I’m not sure that we were able to finish off the little 4 oz serving between five of us!

We were all impressed and excited to see a very promising new eating opportunity in the walking radius of our office.  It is a bit pricey, but worth it – it is definitely the good stuff, cooked to order with great care and precision.  I noticed this Jack Kerouac book sitting on the counter, which seemed appropriate to the theme, but turned out to be one of the patron’s lunchtime reading material.  It was all so very North Beach….